Uh oh, Jackson's of the "Meh" generation? :)
-Larry
Uh oh, Jackson's of the "Meh" generation? :)
-Larry
-Dad
Wow. I knew it was worth watching all that scooby when I was a kid.
-Larry
Mt. Ventoux is a mountain in Provence, France with a road to the peak. The Tour de France used it for years in decades past, and most recently in 2009. It is a mountain climbing stage categorized in difficulty as "beyond categorization" (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hors_Catégorie). When I was looking for something to add to my trip with Susan and Dixie (who only needed me as a rental car driver for one week), this stood out. Susan needed me starting on Saturday, so I scheduled Friday for my attempt on Ventoux.![]() |
| The proper recovery drink in Provence |
In Fujian, they love their soups. So, of course, they serve lots of it tonight. I am not quite sure if I have impressed the kind of honor the Tseng family seems to be giving my dad. Later, they show me the plaque about my dad and his immediate family, and how he had contributed significantly to build this temple. They make sure to let me know, There is only other such plaque and place of honor in the temple. It is in the first main room you enter, on the right hand side, immediately left of the huge wall diagram of those who have donated significantly to this temple. All of these plaques are engraved in granite stone. Anyway, this dinner has a corresponding impressiveness to each dish, in quality, exoticness, and quantity.
That is to say that each dish would really scare Susan! I found all the dishes to have great weydow, and were quite exotic to me.
[Actually after writing this, i remembered the lunch table on the way to see the toulou. I think it is telling that I forgot that, because it was certainly scarier at first. I remember how the food five years ago on the way back from the great wall was the typical Chinese tourist food, with metal serving dishes, and gooey soupy dishes cooked for way too long. At this tourist trap which our guide (remember, we found this one by a girl under a sun brella standing by the road) had led us to, turned out to be the home of the tour guide. Who was a Hakka by race/tribe. Oh, did I forget to mention, that I only recently discovered that I am of the Hakka people's? So, our little group of four Tseng's, and the tour guide/restauranteur were all Hakka. The way Songtao ordered lunch for us was by standing next the cook and her display refrigerator with the ingredients. It actually looked fresh. The circular table was wrapped in that red Saran wrap. And the bowl,plate cups were in sealed packages. In the end, the food was way better than the great wall tourist trap, and while I didn't dare to eat much, I didn't feel hungry until dinner. Though now that I think about it, I never had hunger or stomach problems on my whole trip! (typing in incheon!)]
The next morning (thursday the 14th), we were woken by knocking early at our door. We had set our alarms for sleeping in, as we thought we were going to have breakfast with that Tseng scholar, who said he had connections with the hotel owner. We even heard we might have breakfast with the hotel owner! When we answer the door, it's that Tseng scholar, who is a distant cousin of some generations older than us. He's here to take us to breakfast! Err, okay, early by 90minutes. I invite him in wearing my skimpy hotel bathrobe, thinking he's our honored guest who apparently thinks we've been keeping him waiting. So I don't really think he'll stay long as we need to get ready to downstairs. But no, he's here to stay in the hotel room until we go down with him. Wow they really do things differently.
Typical Chinese breakfast. That means fried rice, lots of fried vegetable dishes, various tofu, cookies, cakes, toast, Breakfast Intestines, chicken pork soup with spinach, Yoou tiaou, ex-puffy tsoon yoou bing, a cook was stationed at the soup station, where they could poach your egg, or layer on chinese greens on your soup. There was no omlettes to be had here! Dad loved it. The hotel owner never showed up.
After breakfast, the Tseng scholar takes his leave. Songtao arrives with his cute 4 year old daughter and I get to introduce her to my iPad. Of course that warms her up to me a bit. Xiangching arrives on his motorbike, to help escort us back to his house. He leaves the bike at the hotel, and we squeeze in one car. Eh? Aren't we just going to his house? Why did he need to come to the hotel to squeeze in songtao's car? Songtao might have been gone from Changting a few years but... Anyway.
When we go back to Xiangching's house, there are more fireworks in the daytime! And then finally, we get to relax a bit, and meet the family members.
When I am introduced to someone, usually they think a moment and tell me the generational ranking we have to each other and thus what we call each other. Something like big brother, uncle, first cousin once removed, etc. NEVER, do I hear their names! I don't have to introduce myself using my name, Chinese "shun fuu", or "Larry". When the more familiar ones have to call me by name they usually pronounce my Chinese name as if were "Shamu" the sea world killer whale. I adapt. At least I don't have to memorize all their names at once.
I just realized, some readers may not know what i mean when i say i am of the same generation as another person. It does not refer to our actual age. It refers to the difference in hierarchy on the Tseng family tree dating back 26 generations. My dad was of the 23rd generation. So I am of the 24th. Jackson and Jenna would be of the 25th. Songtao and Xiangching are of the 25th. So, even though songtao and I were both born in 1968, he calls me uncle, and I call him nephew. Err, you should also know that his father is actually the son of the brother of my father. While I am diagramming him, I should mention at same brother of my father is also Xiangching's grandfather. My father had eight brothers, and two sisters. Only one of his brothers produced offspring. We meet dad's last remaining blood sister later today.
I can not keep straight who is who. never mind I am not expected to know their name. I cannot even keep straight what generation they are since generations can Span so many ages. Later dad tells me that when he apologizes and asks someone their specific name they don't answer. It is not part Of any introductions. Only their generation relationship is made clear. Apparently it is just not good manners to have to introduce yourself with their name. When self reintroducing themselves to me they stress the relationship ranking. Call me uncle, or call me big brother, or call me nephew, etc.... Agh! I wonder if this has anything to do with the Chinese sense of self worth. The family/hive is more important than the individual. [tongue in cheek here, I am getting tired.]
Oh, I forgot to mention something important since at first dinner at the ancestral temple. They like to drink. A lot. And it is encouraged by lots of toasts to individuals, especially the guest of honor. Oh, they know my dad being older than almost all of them, and there's a lot, can't keep up, and don't expect him to. So, they make me! My journalling suffers. I am typing this and actually the last two posts before this one on the way home.
All four of us go visit Xiamen university. Despite a security guard telling there is no parking inside, we go in and park. It's a very scenic campus, that seems built around a man made lake. Dad does not remember any such lake back in his days. There is a big group of uniformed high school students visiting the campus. I guess it is to motivate them to study hard. I later learn how many hours they spend in school.
First year college students all sit in the same classroom and desk for the whole year, teachers come in to teach thei various subjects. So they don't have to take books around, all their books are already in their desk.
We see lots of new buildings, as well as some old buildings that dad remembers. There are a few signs for the century anniversary that the college just celebrated.
Nanputao temple is almost connected to the university. So we visit that too. It has monks studying as well as hordes of tourists and worshippers. There is a pagoda statue that folks are throwing coins into the window orfices. Presumably a wishing well tradition. We see a lion with a ball in its mouth and so Songtao points How the ball is often constructed within the teeth. Xiangching buys a bag full of treats to take home for the family. I wish I thought of that.
We pass a small market with assorted items and I notice the rolled up tshirt tradition is still alive. I think it must just be too cold for the natives to demonstrate this earlier.
We see a space like a playground on the university, but it is filled with wooden gymnastic parallel bars. That must be a sight to see during pe class.
We have Lunch at a Thai Vietnamese restaurant. After parking for lunch, I comment that there is a guy handing tickets out of the parking gate machine. It seems like quite a water of man power to do something a machine is already in place for. Songtao later explains patiently to me that he is the only dude for parking fees. No one at the exit. So he has to manage the fee with some duration variations. Thai Vietnamese is not like the us version. It could be a variation for Chinese tastes. There isn't phad Thai. :(. Still it is yummy, and yet another difference I experienced.
After lunch, we take the ferry to gulangyu Island, where they do not allow any gas vehicles. It's a place for locals to go for relaxing, and perhaps to gawk at the foreigners architecture left there decades ago. The Ferry charges 1rmb for upstairs, which is much less crowded and have seats. It is standing room only downstairs. After we get there, I admit the view back to xiamen is particularly nice. But it seems to have as many people on the island as there were back in Xiamen downtown! The streets are filled with tourist shopping, and surprisingly a number of fresh seafood mongers. When we finally sit down for some tea by the sand beach, we are gouged by the plastic tabled entrepreneurs, and are charged 70rmb for a little bag of cheap tea. Still this island is quite different from how dad remembers. It used to be full of embassies of european nations. There is a piano museum full of pianos left by those embassies.
You cant help but wonder about the cars as we drive around xiamen. There are a few american brands. But mostly japanese cars dominate. Thee are chinese brands, but they are more rare than the american. There are a large number of bmw's, and audi's. There are a very large number of porsche cayennes. The rich got to flaunt it here. Songtao says the rich have so much money they pretty much have to work hard to try to spend it. At least thats how i choose to interpret him.... Numerology is still strongly believed here. License plate numbers considered lucky are very much desired. Songtao would like an Audi Q5. I never see one, lots of late model q7's though.
Perhaps in response to my complaints about the expense of Dinner last night. Of which Songtao again paid for completely. We try going to a Food court above a shopping center. It is the kind where you pay for a card loaded with some yuan. Then you go choose your food with that card, and you get a refund of money off the remainder on the card. It's rather adventurous food to me, though I say i could manage. Dad finds some food that reminds him of local Changting cooking. But in the end, we decide it isn't good enough. Dad tells me later that it must have been my face that said: go somewhere else.
We choose a Ginger duck restaurant that we saw advertised in the elevator up to the food court. It was quite yummy, and frequented by plenty of locals. [as if I could recognize a local.] the restaurant service had one interesting feature. After the waitress took our food order, a Tsingtao girl took our beer order. Apparently, it's an agreement the restaurant has with Tsingtao.
-Larry
[Sent from my iPad]